Sugar Snap Peas with Lemon Butter and Sweet Corn

I've been thinking about the sugar snap peas at Graffiato for a couple of weeks now…  Light and buttery with a hint of lemon.  Served with a tomato pesto and goat cheese.  Cooked perfectly, they were simple and fantastic.  

So for dinner tonight, I set out not so much to recreate this dish – because hell, I'm not Mike Isabella – but to be inspired by it.

Sugar Snap Peas with Lemon Butter and Sweet Corn

• 1 ear of corn
• 2 cups of sugar snap peas, with the ends snapped off
• 1/2 tablespoon butter
• Juice squeezed from half of a lemon

Bring water to boil for the corn and snap peas.  

Boil corn and peas for about 3 minutes.  Rinse in cold water.  

Remove the corn kernels from the cob.

Melt the butter in a saute pan, over medium heat.  

Add the peas and toss to coat with the butter.  

Squeeze the juice over the peas and toss again.

Add the corn and toss all ingredients together.

Remove from heat and serve.  You can top this with a little bit of goat cheese if desired.  I tried it and it was good, but not necessary.

Notes:

• This doesn't need to cook for very long in the saute pan.  The peas should be tender, but still have a bit of crispiness to them.  
• You can serve this slightly chilled, but in that case, olive oil would probably be more suitable than the butter.
• Another good option for this would be to grill the corn and steam the peas in a foil packet with the lemon juice and butter.  I would love to try it this way the next time.  On a weekend. When I'm not getting home from work at 7 pm.

This was served with chili-lime shrimp and risotto.

Enjoy!  With a nice glass of Prosecco…

Heirloom Tomato Pesto

In honor of Meatless Monday, I decided to make tomato pesto with linguine for dinner.  And then I promptly added some andouille sausage for my husband.  Oh well, maybe next week.

The addition of andouille (this is what happens when your husband demands meat and you let him choose) wasn't as weird as it may sound.  The spicyness was a nice complement to the red pepper flakes in the pesto.  Topped with some fresh basil and parmesan it was actually rather good…  

Thanks to the America's Test Kitchen twitter account for the recipe inspiration… I only modified it a teensy bit.

Heirloom Tomato Pesto

• 1/4 cup slivered almonds, lightly toasted until golden brown and fragrant
• 2-3 large heirloom tomatoes, roughly chopped
• 1/2 cup fresh basil, packed
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled (roasted garlic would probably be even better if you have the time!)
• A splash of red wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 pound pasta
• 1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan
• Optional: 1/2 pound andouille sausage, sliced or crumbled, cooked separately and added as a topping

Start the water to boil for the pasta.

In a food processor or blender, combine the almonds, tomatoes, basil and garlic for about 30 seconds.

Ready to be pesto-fied!

Add a splash of red wine vinegar (no more than 1/2 teaspoon), the red pepper flakes and salt. Continue to blend for another 30 seconds.

With the processor or blender running, slowly pour the olive oil into the mixture.  Blend for another 30 seconds or until the oil is incorporated.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente.  Reserve 1/2 cup pasta water, draining the rest.

Add the tomato pesto to the pasta and stir.  Add pasta water as needed to fully coat the pasta with the pesto mixture.  I only used maybe 1/4 cup of this.  

Stir in the parmesan.

Spoon into bowls and top with basil, grated parmesan, and optionally, the meat.

Enjoy!  Even if your Monday isn't meatless… 

Slow Cooked Pork Ribs

These pork ribs from White House Meats were coated in a simple dry rub of brown sugar, chili powder, and cayenne pepper.  Wrapped in a foil boat (like a tent, but shaped like a boat) with about 1/8 cup of water, I slow cooked them in the oven for about 3.5 hours at 250 degrees.

 

Oh. My. God.  The noises my husband made while eating these made me a very happy woman.

The meat was juicy and tender and fell off the bones.  The rub provides a subtle sweetness, but also a decent kick of spice.  No barbecue sauce necessary.  In fact, it would almost ruin these… 

Slow Cooked Pork Ribs

• 1 pound slab of pork ribs
• A bit over 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 1/8 to 1/4 cup chili powder
• 1 1/2 tablespoons cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 1/8 cup water

In a small bowl, mix the brown sugar, chili powder, cayenne pepper until well mixed and any lumps have been removed from the brown sugar.  Stir in the salt and pepper.

Coat both sides of the ribs with the dry rub.  

Wrap the ribs in a foil boat, and add 1/8 cup water before sealing.  The foil should allow air and moisture to circulate inside the packet, but should be sealed tight.  

Note: My friend Sharilyn suggests apple juice or wine as an alternative to water.  I’d listen to her because she’s a fairly amazing cook.

Add the foil packet to a shallow roasting dish and bake in the oven at 250* degrees for approximately 3.5 hours.  And don’t open the foil to check!  Just leave them alone and marvel at the glorious aromas emanating from your oven.

*Full Disclosure: I did turn up the oven to 350 for about 30 minutes in the middle of cooking because I was making goat cheese brownies, but I kind of doubt that it affected the ribs.  Most recipes I’ve read call for 200 degrees at 4 hours, some of them reducing the temperature for the last 2 hours.  Others I’ve read suggest 300 degrees for 3 hours.  All I know is that these were magical, so I’m sticking with what I know.     

 

Enjoy!  And don’t be ashamed of your finger licking ways… 

Goat Cheese Brownies

I've been having a huge, fiery love affair lately… with goat cheese.  Baked with vegetable tarts, crumbled on top of tomato salads, spread over a simple cracker… I just can't help myself.

This recipe was inspired by an episode of Throwdown with Bobby Flay, where he challenges (and loses to) the ladies of the Vermont Brownie Company, famous for their Dark Chocolate Chevre Brownie.  

I used Mark Bittman's simple and classic recipe for brownies (with some minor tweaks) and googled for ideas on how to make the goat cheese swirl.  Ultimately I settled on a slightly modified version of the goat cheese swirl from the Pink Apron.  

The combination was fantastic!  The deep chocolate flavor coupled with just a bit of salty, tanginess was a pleasant surprise and cut the richness of the chocolate in just the right way…  I think this could only be improved by the addition of a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a sauce made from some Fabbioli Raspberry Merlot.  Or maybe just by drinking the raspberry merlot itself.  :)

 

Goat Cheese Brownies

For the Brownies:

• 10 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder, Pernigotti  HIGHLY recommended
• 11 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• Alternative: use 3 ounces unsweetened chocolate squares melted with 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, optional

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and lightly grease an 8 inch square baking pan.

Stir together the cocoa powder and melted butter until smooth.  If you're not using cocoa powder, melt the butter and chocolate together in a double boiler or in a small sauce pan.

Add the sugars and mix well, making sure all of the lumps are gone.

Mix in the eggs one by one.

Add the flour, salt and vanilla (if using), and stir until all ingredients are incorporated.

Pour the batter into the greased pan and spread out with a spatula.

For the Goat Cheese Swirl:

• 3 ounces goat cheese, room temperature will make it easier to mix
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
• 1 or 2 tablespoons pure vermont maple syrup
• 1 egg
• 1 tablespoon all purpose flour

In a small bowl, combine the goat cheese and melted butter until smooth.  

Add the maple syrup and egg.  Stir until blended.

Stir in the flour and mix well.

Add the goat cheese mixture to the pan and lightly swirl into the brownie batter with a spoon.  

My grandmother taught me that when it smells done, it probably is… But just in case, bake for 20-25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the brownies comes out clean.  

 

Allow to cool for about five minutes (who are we kidding)… Cut into squares and serve warm.  

Enjoy!  And try not to eat the whole pan at once…

 

Fry Bread Tacos

Some of my favorite food memories are not from fabulous restaurants in big cities, but are instead born of ordinary moments with family.  My mother making tomato soup and grilled cheese for me when I was sick.  My grandmother pickling and making relishes, the kitchen filled with warm aromas of mustard seed and cucumbers and vinegar.  My grandfather treating us to fry bread tacos on Tuesday afternoons at the local Native American cultural center in my hometown… 

When the center stopped making their tacos in 2002, they published the recipe in the local newspaper, and my grandmother clipped it out and sent it to me.  I still have the clipping and keep it safely nestled in the cover of one of my least-often used cookbooks.  I make these tacos only on rare occasions.  After all,  they are special to me, and I want them to remain so.  The recipe is something I hope to someday make for my own own grandchildren.  And I hope that they will love eating them – together, with me – just as much as my grandfather and I did.

Fry Bread Tacos (originally published in The Wichita Eagle, 12.25.2002)

For the fry bread: 

• About 2 1/2 cups flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2/3 cup evaporated milk
• 2/3 cup water
• Canola oil, for frying

Mix together flour, baking powder and salt in bowl.

In a small sauce pan, warm the milk and water mixture.

Make a well in the flour mixture and pour in the warmed milk-water mixture.  

Note: Don't skip the well. It really does make a difference in how the mixture comes together. If you don't buy my ultra-scientific explanation, try it once without the well and you'll see what I mean… 

Combine ingredients. Start by mixing with a fork.  

Transfer to a well-floured work surface and continue mixing using your hands until a soft, slightly sticky dough is achieved.  

Heat oil to 375 degrees in a deep fryer or deep pot.  

Note: I generally pour enough oil in the pan to measure about an inch deep, or just past the first knuckle of my thumb, then I heat it for about 5 minutes over medium heat.  This is the same technique I use for making eggrolls.

Shape the dough into tortillas about 4 inches in diameter and ¼ to ½ inch thick.

Carefully lower into hot oil and fry until golden brown on bottom.  This doesn't take very long at all, so watch it carefully.

Using tongs or a basket spoon, carefully flip over and continue cooking until the other side is golden brown.

Remove from hot oil.  Set aside on paper towels to drain any excess oil, and keep warm.

For the filling:

• 1 lb. ground beef (turkey or pork would also be fine)
• 1 onion, diced
• 1 package taco seasoning (or make your own with some chili powder, cumin, salt, garlic powder, and maybe a pinch of cayenne pepper)
• 1 can pinto beans, partially mashed (refried or black beans are also acceptable)
• Shredded cheddar cheese
• Shredded Lettuce
• Salsa

Brown the ground meat in skillet with the diced onions.

Season with taco seasoning according to packet directions, or with DIY mix and 1/2 cup water.

Layer fry bread with beans, seasoned meat mixture, cheddar cheese, lettuce and salsa.

Tips:

• Feel free to experiment with the toppings.  I occasionally use chicken and black beans for a *slightly* healthier version.
• If you have leftover fry bread, turn it into a dessert by sprinkling with cinnamon and sugar or topping it with honey and ricotta.

Enjoy!

Mike Isabella’s Graffiato

I just found my new favorite restaurant in DC, Mike Isabella's Graffiato.  Not only did I get to sit about five feet away from him while he was sitting at the bar and then plating food, but I got to eat his grandmother's gnocchi.  Blissful, light, moist, heavenly potato gnocchi!  

The service was fantastic. We weren't rushed.  Plates and glasses were whisked away almost as soon as we pushed them aside.  Glasses were refilled and drinks refreshed in a seemingly automated fashion.  

The dishes are small plates ideal for sharing, with a suggestion of about three to four dishes per person.  The food comes out as it's ready and the waiter advised against trying to devise any particular strategy for ordering.  We ordered a few items at a time as we pleased and just relished the food.  Our server was knowledgeable about the food and offered terrific suggestions, which opened our eyes to things we probably wouldn't have otherwise considered.  Also, when my husband ordered a DC Brau on tap, but they brought Peroni by mistake, the server corrected it before John even noticed.  

And did I mention that they offered Prosecco on tap?!  ON TAP!!! 

Mmm… Prosecco… On tap… And how cute is the plant in a tin can?

The restaurant had a modern and casual feel that also didn't try too hard.  It was dark and intimate, and my favorite part (well, other than the food) was being able to watch the chefs cook and plate the food.  And the music selection of upbeat rock and alternative brought me back to my childhood.

Here's our meal in review…  (A few of the photos are blurry… Sorry, I was hungry.)

Sugar Snap Peas with Tomato Pesto and Goat Cheese

First of all, goat cheese is one of our favorite things…  So much so that we ordered this dish solely because we wanted to eat the goat cheese.  The peas had a wonderful flavor of lemon and olive oil. It was almost buttery, but lighter.  The tomato pesto was something special… and the peas were perfectly crispy but tender.  This was a great start to the meal.

Spiced Red Beets with Pork Fried Almonds

The almonds were so good.  They reminded me of the nuts I roasted last Christmas, but with a lot less sugar.  The beets were sweet, but not overly so.  I'm pretty sure I could make those almonds. Mmm… pork fat.

Blue Crab Salad with Cucumber and Cantaloupe

The blue crab salad was one of the specials of the night.  And when they say crab salad, I'm pretty sure they actually mean CRAB.  And a *wee* bit of salad.  The cantaloupe added a perfect amount of sweetness, so that the salad didn't need a lot of mayo.  Nor anything else really.  The lump crab was perfectly moist, lightly sweet and full of flavor.  It was so satisfying on it's own.

And afterwards they brought us new plates, so the rest of our food didn't get all "beet-y."  :)

 
The bar at Graffiato.  I'd love to sit here and just drink Prosecco and watch the chef's work.  It's a great concept.  And I want those light fixtures.

The countryman pizza at Graffiato is by far the most decadent pizza I've ever had. Black truffles, fontina cheese and a duck egg.  The yolk was cracked with a spoon and spread over the pizza as they served it to us.  Talk about food porn… The pizza crust was the perfect thickness and not charred.  We could actually watch the guy tossing dough from where we sat.  At about 6 slices per pizza, it's *almost* too much for small plates shared between two people, but the pizza here is definitely something special and not to be missed.

 

Roasted potato gnocchi with braised pork shank and burrata cheese was our "pasta" dish, and probably my favorite dish of the night.  The gnocchi, apparently made from Chef Isabella's grandmother's recipe, was truly a delight.  The gnocchi was soft, moist and not even remotely heavy nor rich.  The braised pork was juicy and flavorful without overwhelming the tender gnocchi.  It had a bit of a subtly sweet but savory tomato flavor that I want to imagine as the Italian version of barbecue.  The totality of the dish was a flavor combination and texture that I don't know how to fully articulate, but it's definitely a food memory that I will not soon forget.

This hearty wood oven dish of three pork ribs and a coriander yogurt was our next to last dish.  The meat fell off of the rib bones.  The greek style yogurt, flavored with just the right amount of coriander was a lovely complement to the dry rub, oregano seasoned ribs.  

For our final dish of the night we wavered between a classic Caesar salad and dessert… The dessert won out, but I'd love to try the salad someday.  The "croutons" are made from natural and fresh cream cheese (think nothing like the Philadelphia cream cheese you buy in stores), which is rolled in polenta and deep fried.  Umm… I think I need to make those…  

Last but not least… dessert.  We ordered the Panna Cotta.  Coconut, pineapple, cashews, basil… The panna cotta had a subtle hint of coconut, though I really couldn't taste any cashew.  The pineapple seemed to be cooked and cooled with a sort of simple syrup that topped the panna cotta. Small, perfectly diced squares of watermelon mixed with basil topped the dish.  Basil and watermelon?!  How did I not know about this amazingly fantastic combination?  The dessert was the perfect end to a fairly rich and indulgent meal.  Light, refreshing and not overly sweet, we were definitely pleased.  And even more so when the waiter complimented our selection by saying how refreshing it was to have a table that didn't order the chocolate tart.  As much as I love chocolate, I'd have to choose this any day…    

Chef Mike Isabella… about five feet from our table.

After our meal, Chef Isabella was standing near our table and I couldn't resist thanking him for an amazing meal.  He was gracious and polite and asked if we had a good time.  We did indeed.  

We ordered a total of seven dishes and left full and content, but not stuffed and in pain.  Best of all, the prices were fairly reasonable given the level of service and the quality of food.  

There are so many other things I'd love to try, like the ham plates, the lobster, and the polenta with spicy pork meatballs and a soft egg.  But next time, I think I'll try the chef's tasting menu…  Who's with me?

Vegetable Frittata

While I love a good quiche, I think I enjoy the frittata even more.  It derives most of its flavor from the vegetables you add, rather than cream and cheese.  And it doesn't require a crust.  The eggs can be whisked vigorously to incorporate more air and yield something that feels a bit lighter and fluffier than a traditional omelet.  And while eggs aren't exactly friendly on the cholesterol count, if you're not eating the entire frittata by yourself, I think it's probably okay… 

Vegetable Frittata

• 1/2 tablespoon olive oil
• 1/2 tablespoon butter
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 onion, diced
• 1 medium zucchini, diced but unpeeled
• 1 medium squash, diced but unpeeled
• Salt and pepper, to taste.
• 7 eggs, whisked
• a bit less than 1/4 cup cream (very, very optional… mostly I was just trying to use this up!)
• 1/4 cheese (again, optional… I used a blend of fontina, asiago and parmesan, but contemplated goat)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Mince the garlic and dice the onion, zucchini and squash.  You can leave the skins on the zucchini and squash.

Melt the butter and olive oil together in a large skillet over medium heat.  I prefer to use a deep cast iron skillet for this dish.

Add the garlic and onions and cook for about five minutes, or until the onions begin to turn translucent.  

Mix in the squash and zucchini. Add a pinch of salt and pepper, to taste, and cook for another 5-7 minutes or until the vegetables begin to soften.

Meanwhile, in a large glass bowl, whisk the eggs by hand for a minute or so.  Add the cream, if desired.

Pour the egg mixture into the pan with the vegetables and reduce heat to medium low.  Quickly stir in the cheese, if using.

As the egg starts to set, run a spatula around the edge of the pan.  Cook for about 5-7 minutes.  The top may still look runny.

 

Remove the pan from the stove and add it to the oven to finish off.  Cook for another 5-10 minutes until the top is set.  It may begin to puff up and turn slightly brown.  

Alternative: You can cook longer on the stove and finish it off under a broiler for a few minutes, if you prefer, but I've never had much luck with those……

Remove from the oven, slice and serve immediately.  (I served this with slices of tomato, but a salad would be equally nice.)

Just remember… like most things, the vegetable frittata is better when it's simple.

Enjoy!

Smoked Andouille, Summer Vegetables, Linguine and Cream Sauce

I'm really not sure what to call this dish, since it was essentially another edition of "make shit up for dinner" night.  But it must have been good because the husband ordained me "the sorceress of yummy yummies."  

On to the tasty parts… 

Smoked Andouille, Summer Vegetables, Linguine and Cream Sauce

• About 1 lb smoked andouille sausage, casings removed
• 1 medium zucchini, diced
• 1 medium carrot, chopped into small sticks
• 4-5  red, yellow and orange baby bell peppers, chopped
• 1 yellow tomato, diced
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup half-and-half (see, I'm trying not to kill you!)
• 1/4 cup white wine
• 1/4 cup blend of fontina, asiago, and parmesan cheeses (plus more for topping, optionally)
• 1 lb fresh linguine

Crumble the andouille and cook thoroughly in a deep sauce pan over medium-high heat.

Drain excess fat from the sausage.

Reduce heat to medium.  Add the zucchini, carrots and peppers and cook for 4-5 minutes.    

Meanwhile, bring water for the pasta to boil.

Add the tomato, heavy cream, half-and-half and white wine to the sausage and veggie mixture. Bring to a slow boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer until sauce begins to thicken slightly.

Note: Don't cook the hell out of this… The veggies should still be a bit crisp when everything is served.

When the water begins to boil, add the fresh linguine.  Cook for about 2 and a half to 3 minutes.  If using dried pasta, cook according to package directions.

Stir in 1/4 cup of the three cheese blend and allow to melt into the sauce.

Drain the pasta.  

Dish into bowls and top with sausage, veggies and sauce mixture, and optionally more cheese.  

Enjoy!  If you think your thighs are man enough to handle it! :)

 

Summer Vegetable Tart

I picked up some zucchini, squash and mini eggplants from the farmers market this weekend and decided to turn them into a goat cheese and bacon delivery mechanism.  Because I love goat cheese.  And bacon.  Mmm… bacon…  And you know… it's good to eat vegetables.  And stuff.

Summer Vegetable Tart with Goat Cheese and Bacon

• 1 small zucchini
• 1 small yellow squash
• 3 mini eggplants
• 1/2 tablespoon butter
• 1/2 tablespoon olive oil
• Smidge of salt and pepper
• Puff pastry (I used four squares of puff pastry measuring approximately 4×4 inches)
• Goat cheese
• 2 strips of bacon, cooked and broken into small pieces

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees, or the specified temperature on the package directions of the puff pastry.

If using frozen puff pastry, defrost for about 20-30 minutes at room temperature, or according to whatever the package directions specify.  If you're making puff pastry from scratch, congratulate yourself on your awesomeness.  Also, open a bottle of wine and start drinking… because you're probably going to need it.  Julia Child knows!

Wash and chop the zucchini, squash, and mini eggplants, leaving the skins on.

In a large saute pan, melt the butter and olive oil together over medium heat.  

Add the vegetables, a little salt and pepper to taste, and saute for about 2-3 minutes.  

Add a splash of balsamic vinegar (about 1 tablespoon – more or less depending on how prominent you want the flavor to be).  

Note: The balsamic vinegar really makes the flavor when coupled with the goat cheese.  The marriage of these two flavors is really what makes this tart special.  Even if I like to pretend it's the bacon.

Toss the vegetables to coat.  Cook for another minute or so, then turn off and remove from heat.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and transfer the puff pastry on to it.

Score the edge of the puff pastry squares with a knife and poke several times with the tines of a fork.  Brush very lightly with some olive oil or an egg wash.  Top the squares of puff pastry with the lightly sauteed vegetables.

Add some goat cheese and pop the tarts in the oven.  

Ready for the oven… Mmm… Goat Cheese…

Bake for about 20-25 minutes or for however long the package directions say you should.

In the meantime, cook the bacon, if you haven't already done so.  Set aside to drain the excess grease from the bacon.  Allow to cool and chop into bite size pieces.

With a few minutes left of bake time, add the bacon to the tarts.

When the edges have puffed up and turned lightly golden brown, remove from the oven and allow to cool for a couple of minutes before serving.

Enjoy!  

Grilled Cheese. Now With Bacon.

How can I possibly make a grilled cheese more unhealthy?  Add bacon.  

Grilled Cheese with Bacon

• 2 slices bacon
• 2 slices rye bread
• A slab of butter, approximately 1 tablespoon
• Cheese (I'm lazy, so I used a slice of American cheese. But you should feel free to experiment with one or more unprocessed cheeses.) 

Fry up the slices of bacon and when crisped to your liking remove from the pan and set aside on a paper towel to soak up the excess grease.  

Off heat, remove the bacon grease from the pan.  

Tip: Store bacon grease in a jar and use it for making popcorn later on.  It gives it an awesome smoky flavor.  Thanks to Kat for enhancing my life with this bit of knowledge!

Over medium heat, melt about half a tablespoon of butter in the pan.  Add a slice of bread.  

Top the bread with cheese and after about 30 seconds, add the bacon (break into pieces first). Top with another slice of bread.  

After another 30 seconds or so, remove the sandwich with a spatula and add the other half tablespoon of butter.  As it melts, flip the sandwich back into the pan. 

Remove after a minute or so… or when the bread has turned crispy and golden on both sides.  

Mmm… bacon…

For the record, I did eat a peach after this monstrosity.

Enjoy!  With or without tomato soup, but definitely not without the bacon.